Ommegang - subtlety with a Midas touch

After trumping all quaffed craft ales in 2013 with what I felt was the most astounding and memorable ale of the year, an opportunity to snaffle another from the Ommegang range was met with thinly disguised dilation of the pupils. Ommegang are a New York brewhouse from Cooperstown founded in 1997 that falls under the Duvel empire, and the pedigree shows, but Ommegang take tradition and work it in new and adventurous ways. And are serious about their presence on the dining table. 

A Dubbel weighing in at 8.2%, the ale proves a base for the exploration of flavour that seems to be the cornerstone of Ommegang philosophy. A sum of its' parts, the ale is brewed with liqorice root, star anise, sweet orange peel, coriander and cumin. The palate sings with fruitcake and a malty richness, with a moderate viscosity and a low carbonation, this is top grade cuisine ale, finely garbed, subtley twisted with the spiked spice notes, finishing with the clean liqorice tones. A brief olfactory memory flash of Fisherman's Friend pops into awareness... 

Cullen - Biodynamic trailblazers of Margaret River

1. how does Cullen maintain poll position in the premium wine market?

Our mantra is Quality, Integrity and Sustainability. We strive to make the best wines in the most sustainable way. Many of our customers have been with us on the journey from minimal chemical input, to organics and finally to biodynamics. I feel like there is an appreciation of our story and what we are striving to achieve, both for the wines and for the environment. At the same time, consistency in the quality of our wines over the last four decades has been a big part of our success.  

2. tell us about Margaret River

Margaret River is one of the most isolated wine growing regions in the world. We are situated 300kms south of Perth in Western Australia, between picturesque Cape Leeuwin and Cape Naturaliste. The environment is clean and pure. Our close proximity to the Indian Ocean means we benefit from a temperate climate. The soils are made up of clay, sand and gravelly loam – ideal for growing Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Our vineyard site was chosen by my grandparents due to its suitability for growing Cabernet Sauvignon. 

3. what do you miss most about Australia (weather exempt)?

I would not give up being in the UK for the world right now.  Having said that, I miss sitting on the veranda of our beach house, feeling all salty and exhausted after a surf, with a cool glass of Chardonnay in hand. I miss driving across the farm at sunset with kangaroos bounding across the paddocks and the grey Aussie bush stretched out behind me. I miss eating fresh abalone (a mussel-like shellfish) that has just been chipped off the rocks and thrown on a hot barbecue. I miss diving into the ocean to cure a hangover.

4. desert island wines - a. Australian b. European c. summon the genie.

a. Mt Horrocks Watervale Riesling

b. Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Richebourg Grand Cru

c. Château d’Yquem (1811 would be good, if the Genie was feeling generous). 

5. perceptions of the British palate

British consumers are sophisticated wine drinkers with a window into every wine growing region in the world. The classic Bordelaise varieties seem popular here, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. I also feel like there has been a swing back towards Australian wines among British consumers in the last 6 months, which is very exciting.  

6. what do you love most about British culture?

I am obsessed with all BBC period dramas, so I love castles, villages and the wealth of history at every turn. I also love going to the theatre, festivals and oh so many art galleries! Of course, I just can’t walk past a good British afternoon tea or a classic pub lunch.

7. top 3 wine movies?

Red Obsession, Sideways, and A Good Year 

8. soundtrack to a vintage?

Kylie Minogue – will forever remind me of the 2003 harvest

9. favourite European wine region?

Alsace

10. what key things have you leant about the British wine market?

It is very competitive, very dynamic and sophisticated. You have to keep your finger on the pulse.

11. how do you find English wines?

I love the sparkling wines and was blown away by the quality when I first tried them. I tip my hat to them, knowing how tough it must be with some shocking weather.

12. who's going to be in the final for the FIFA World Cup 2014?

I have to confess I don’t follow football, but the guys in Sales Admin tell me no team outside South America has ever won where the World Cup has been held in South America. So, with no knowledge at all, I’ll go with Argentina.