Circa 1993, to quote - Remember this was 1993, Mandela was still on his ‘long walk to freedom’ and free elections were still over a year away. At the time, I’d say I knew two things about the Cape wine industry: nothing and bugger all. In my ten years of wine drinking I had barely been exposed to anything South African.
To the novice drinker, what's excitable about South African wine today?
It might have taken 20 years, but the Cape is catching up on the rest of the world and, rather than looking at their Countries for benchmarks, it is finally looking at itself for inspiration. that comes in the form of old vineyards, mostly Chenin Blanc, with which it is developing identifiably South African white blends that few in the new world can replicate.
Does South Africa offer diversity in its' regions?
Absolutely. There was a time (and some would argue that it still does) that you’d find every commercial grape variety planted within spitting distance of each other. Now, growers are identifying regions which are best adapted to certain varieties – Rhône varieties in the heat of the Swartland, Bordeaux varieties in the more maritime climes of False Bay, Elgin for Pinot Noir…
South Africa one of the best countries to 'trade up' in wine buying (on and off-trade)?
South Africa is offering the best value of any wine producing Country at the moment. This is good and bad. It also means the supermarkets are piling into the country to exploit the weak currency, which invariably means that they undermine the overall image. A five pound bottle of wine is a five pound bottle of wine regardless of where it comes from. Supermarkets add no value to the image of a Country when their sole motivation is based on sourcing at the lowest possible price. Be prepared to pay over a tenner (from any decent independent merchant) and you’ll be amazed at what’s on offer.
Does South Africa produce truly World-class Pinot Noir? Your Top 3 South African Pinot Noirs?
Five years ago I was joking that you could count the numbers of ‘world class’ South African Pinot Noir on the fingers of a mitten. I’m delighted to say that massive progress has been made this decade with my favourite examples coming from Chamonix, Newton Johnson and watch out for the first release from Kevin Grant at Ataraxia, whenever that might happen.
What's the most stunning vineyard/winery (aesthetically) you've visited in South Africa? Describe its' allure.
First you have to get there… Thirty kilometres down a dirt road to Tierhoek in the Piekenierskloof. The isolation spooks some people out (and it’s a real bugger if you run out of sugar).
Does the future of South African wine 'innovation' lie with the maverick approach - small production old-vine bottling’s from top producers, or is there strength in brands still?
All of the above. Even the biggest brands like Nederberg are a force to be reckoned with – at every level in their range.
In brief, South Africa's key strengths over other new world producers.
They have access to more old vine Chenin Blanc that the rest of the world put together.
What are the Top 3 of the World's most under-estimated white grapes (aside from Chenin Blanc).
Riesling (it still is), Muscadet/Melon de Bourgogne (yes, really) and Semillon.
Fantasy dinner table - 6 dinner guests living/deceased.
My three wine heros: Gaston Huet, Robert Mondavi, Allan Mullins. Then Paul Macca (macaroni turkey, anyone?), Joe Jackson and a token woman. Oh yes, my wife…
Describe the most memorable dining experiences in South Africa.
Invariably with friends at their homes: pizzas on the stoep chez Fanus Bruwer (Quando, Robertson), crayfish on the braai with ‘Fast’ Eddie Haumann on the West Coast and Shelley Sandell’s malva pudding at Tierhoek
Is Fair-Trade still a valid trade route to encourage equitable trading between developed/developing nations?
I’ll keep my views to myself on this one.
Advice to the Chancellor on Wine taxation?
There is no justifiable reason why sparkling wine should be taxed at a higher rate than table wine. Parity, please.
One word - is Cape Town the hippest city in the world?
After Harrogate, probably
Favourite Wine movies?
Butch and the Sunrise Kid – a special edition ‘Liberator’ for the Wine Society, now on release…
Richard Kelley MW shares his vision for South African Wine - ?
Finally, just finally, after 20 years, South Africa is getting the recognition for its wines. First the trade and now the press. Next stop - widespread consumer recognition. The best wines are still to come.
